The Future Of Fashion Comes In 3D

Israeli designer Adi Karni Vagt talks about sustainability and the pandemic’s impact on the fashion industry.

Photo Courtesy: Adi Karni Vagt.

It is no longer a novelty that 2020 hit us like a ton of bricks. A year that drove us to rethink every single aspect of our lives including our consumer behavior.

With the uncertainty of what the future holds for the fast fashion industry and some of the biggest luxury brands questioning the official Fashion Week calendar - and successfully escaping from it -, one thing is certain: The world needs to increasingly open its doors to new ethical, sustainable and high-tech proposals.

In a conversation with Adi Karni Vagt — the designer behind some of the looks from our cover shoot — she shared with us some insights about her cultural heritage, her 3D printing proposal, and her predictions on fashion with the arrival of the “new normality”.

We The Cool: When did your interest in fashion begin?

Adi: I always felt a connection to fashion and design. I knew I would deal with fashion from an early age. I sewed everything by hand with a needle and thread, because I didn’t own a sewing machine. When I realized that there was a degree in fashion I decided to do it right after the army (compulsory service in Israel when you are 18). I didn’t have the support from my family to pursue fashion as a profession, even though my greatgrandfather was a tailor and my grandmother sewed. The people around me always told me “there is no money in that industry, especially not in Israel,” so, initially I went for interior design. Then I realized that it was not what I really wanted; it was what people around me wanted. So from that moment, I decided that I wouldn’t give up on my dream of becoming a fashion designer, even if I didn’t have the money or support.

WTC: You graduated from Bezalel Academy of Art and Design in Jerusalem. Can you tell us more about the fashion scene in your country?

A: I studied Fashion and Jewelry at Bezalel, where the emphasis is more on fashion as an art and handicrafts alongside advanced technology. Here is where I learned about 3D printing for the first time. Israel is a small country and only 72 years old. The fashion scene here is very reduced, and each year more businesses and fashion factories close as a consequence of the big fast fashion brands that come from abroad. There is no support from the state in this industry, so as emerging designers, we are fighting for those customers who prefer clothing items that fit the Israeli warmth.

WTC: Most of the time, artists take inspiration from their cultural heritage. How can we find the Israeli influence in your collections?

A: What makes Israel’s culture unique is that it is a merge of diverse cultures that have immigrated from all over the world, such as Morocco, Yemen, the Soviet Union, and Europe after the Holocaust. So my inspiration comes from a wide variety of cultures rather than a specific one. You can see in my designs, that I took some inspiration from the suits and dresses that immigrants from Europe brought with them and I mixed them with my own interpretation. You can also find some items like the shorts, a fringed hat, and the lace that characterizes the Israeli fashion that started in the kibbutz.

WTC: Who inspires your work?

Which artists would you say are your favorite visual references? A: One of the most inspiring artists for me is Alfons Mucha, who was a Czech painter and designer. I love the Art Nouveau period and all the antique 19th-century clothing details from which I draw most of my designs. In addition, I am also very interested in exploring the concept of female beauty in the past. One of my favorite books is History.

WTC: What narratives can we find in the DNA of Adi Karni Vagt?

A: I love colors! I rarely design in black, although it’s more commercial and there is a big demand for this color from customers. I combine different materials such as soft tulle or silk dresses with more stable fabrics. I love developing different sleeves, pleats, and incorporating my 3D printing in small items that usually contain plastic-like buttons and loops.

Photos Courtesy: Adi Karni Vagt.

WTC: 3D printing and innovative technology have always been present in your collections. Can you tell us more about the process of incorporating forward-thinking techniques in your clothing?

A: I learned about technology in fashion as a student at Bezalel. In 2015 I worked in collaboration with the 3D printing center at the Institute of Chemistry at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. They were not only supporting me with new, natural, and recycled materials - but had the most advanced technology printers in the world. Initially, I started researching handmade textiles and designing them using innovative 3D printing technology tools. I created a knitting technique and developed a 3D print embroidery. When Gucci arrived in Israel I introduced my 3D textile brand to them and realized that if such a large company could notice the potential, I had to change the direction of the textile development of my brand and focus on a more commercial and practical approach. I decided to incorporate technology into my designs and produced a prototype with recycled print material that was initially intended to replace buttons, loops, and all items usually made out of plastic. This field is gradually progressing and I believe I will soon be able to combine prints and textiles within all my collections. 3D printing helps me create a sustainable label without limiting my design capabilities.

WTC: When the COVID-19 outbreak began, we started to rethink the future of the clothing industry. How do you think fashion will be different from now on, and how should we, as consumers, change our dressing habits?

A: I think that, from now on, sustainability will start to become more and more important, and I’m glad! I hope the big brands will downplay the fast fashion industry and think more about the planet. I think that, as consumers, we need to understand that buying quality fashion in one single garment is much better than buying multiple cheap garments regularly. We have already seen that brands such as Gucci or Saint Laurent are leaving the Fashion Week calendar. It was just a matter of time, and I believe this year will lead to a big change in the fashion industry and give a platform to more conscious designers with sustainable proposals.

WTC: How is your brand going to change after this pandemic?

A: I started changing my brand even before when I decided I didn’t want to do fast fashion. I produce small quantities. I decided not to use plastic, and so I use a 3D printer and recycled or hand-made materials like corn and potatoes. The lockdown came to my advantage because all the shops were closed and I designed things on my own on the computer and printed them at home, so I didn’t depend on anyone. In fact, it saved me a lot of time and even money. I’m also in the process of day by day thinking about the future of fashion and how we, designers, can be part of this change.

Photo Courtesy: Adi Karni Vagt.